Shoulder Surgery Video

A couple of years ago I had surgery to repair an injured shoulder. The cartilage had detached from the bone (labral tear), and was causing instability in the joint.

Far too many of my friends have been needing similar repairs lately, and it got me thinking. I was given a video from the scope afterwards, but it doesn't seem like this is a very common practice. So I decided to upload the video so my friends, or anyone else with a similar injury, could see what it looks like in there and how they fix it.

Video from the scope

Shoulder Surgery from Paul Nadler on Vimeo.

The following an excerpt from my MRI. I think the differences from what they found with the scope were just that my biceps tendon WAS intact, and that I had a Bankart tear as well as SLAP. My understanding is that these terms described the region of the labrum that is torn. I was told that I was torn from about 11:00 to 6:00.

FINDINGS: There is Hill-Sachs deformity with bone bruise of the superior posterior and medial aspect of the humeral head.

There is anterior glenoid labral tear extending to the most anterior aspect of the superior glenoid labrum which could be related to SLAP II. There is also edema of the long head of the biceps tendon which could be partially torn. Edema is also noted involving the most superior aspect of the subscapularis adjacent to the tendon. Partial tear of the superior aspect of subscapularis at its insertion onto the humeral head is suspected.

Thickening of the inferiorly glenohumeral ligament. AC joint is preserved. Type I acromion.

Subscapularis, infraspinatus and teres minors appear intact.

IMPRESSION: Anterior glenoid labral signal abnormality compatible with tear with possible SLAP II lesion of the anterior aspect of the superior glenoid labrum. There is suspicion for a tear of the long head of the biceps tendon. Biceps tendon however is in its biceps grove. Hill-Sachs deformity with edema of the humeral head. Partial tear superior aspect of the subscapularis. AC joint is preserved. No encroachment. Type I acromion. Biceps tendon is in its grove.

First Time in Hueco Tanks

Hueco Tanks is a kind of strange place. Even the name is redundant. Hueco means hole, and tanks are water holes. Hole holes? The landscape is flat and barren, with this out cropping of unique rock called syenite. The park itself is also a bit strange. All the corridors and different levels give the park a larger feeling than is suggested by its relatively small footprint. Of course you can't forget about all the rules, many of which I barley understand even after watching the 20 minute orientation video. One thing is certain though, there are plenty of good boulder problems to do.

I have been avoiding Hueco mainly because of the difficult dog situation, but decided I just needed to go anyways. There are so many problems here and I have been trying everything, and mostly not climbing anything. I find with new areas it often takes me some time to adapt. This is especially true for me with much of the climbing in Hueco. I'm just getting worked on all the steep and powerful stuff. Still I have managed to climb some classics like the Egg, and I am really enjoying having so many new problems to work on and figure out.

The Egg V8

Photo Enzo Nahumury

Me about to try the crux move of Alma Blanca v13

Photo Enzo Nahumury

Enzo sticking the crux of Alma Blanca v13


Me realizing how weak I am, trying the big first move on New Religion v7. I eventually sent.

Photo Enzo Nahumury

If I stick around long enough I'm sure I'll become more conditioned. Then maybe I'll dispatch more of the things I'm psyched on. One thing is for sure though, I'll be leaving here stronger than when I arrived.

As for Karma, her knee seems to be doing much better. I'm letting her run around again, just on good terrain and not too much. Maybe in another month I'll let her do whatever she wants. Also, here is her x-ray for those interested in these things.



According to the vet, the x-ray showed the knee joint to be stable, meaning no fully torn ACL. What struck me was how much smaller the right leg had become, due mostly to her favoring the left leg over the last few weeks.

On an unrelated note, there have been new developments in my ability to attract other vehicles while asleep. Last night makes the 3rd time someone has drove their car or truck into my car while I was sleeping inside.

I awoke last night in the starbucks parking lot to the very unpleasant, although familiar situation, just in time to see some headlights as the car drove off. In my alert but half-awake state, I noticed Karma was also sitting up, ears and eyes perked, confirming what I knew had just happened. I looked at the clock, about 2:30am. Some probably drunk person bumped into me, nothing more to do. As soon as the adrenaline receded, I went back to sleep.

I was surprised to find in the morning that I was hit quite a bit harder than I had thought.



My friend Axel and I were able to bash out the big dent a bit, and there doesn't seem to be any damage that should cause problems. I asked the stores around if they had a camera pointed that direction, but no luck. If I got a plate maybe I could have gotten some insurance money.

For anyone wondering, the last time I was hit was just a fender bender in a camping area. No big deal. The first time however was a bit of a interesting situation, since I was hit by semi-truck.

I was travelling west through Nebraska and had stopped in a rest area. The truck parking area was full and the semis were parking in the car parking. I pulled in, making sure to leave more than enough room between me and the semi in front of me, and went to sleep.

The next thing I remember was waking up to a jolt, and a semi backing into me. Thankfully, the ground was covered in snow and I was just being pushed back. My instinct was to hit the brakes, but I quickly realized that was a bad idea. While continuing to be pushed, I had time to wail on the horn for a while. The semi eventually stopped. I figured he had herd me, but then he just took off driving. I thought, I should follow him, but figured my car was messed up. I ran outside to take a look, and to my surprise there was just a very small scratch on the bumper.

I stood there for a minute, looking around at the other cars and trucks which seemed not to notice anything at all. I drove my car a little to make sure it was fine, and once convinced, continued my drive. Looking back I think another semi must have pulled in, filling is the gap between me and the semi in front of me.

Hopefully this is the last time i'll wake up to a hit and run.

Escape Artist

My goal at Moe's Valley was to do Escape Artist v12. Having pretty quick success, I then got psyched on the lower start added by Daniel Woods. This to me is the most logical place to begin the climb, adding both quality and difficulty. So I put in some more time and effort, and was able to do what I'm guessing is the 2nd ascent from the lower holds. I put together a video, hope you enjoy!

Escape Artist Low v13

Escape Artist Low from Paul Nadler on Vimeo.

Also some pictures from hanging out with friends on rest days.

Jesse Bonin working the proj.


Ryan Held on Gription.


Ryan Held sticking the big move on Escape Artist


Andy Rosenzweig heading back to the car after a day of bouldering.

Vegas

When it's snowing and cold all over the country, you can always count on Vegas to be... less cold and snowy. It seems everywhere in the west got pummeled by a massive storm recently, and Vegas was no exception. It dried up though, and the climbing has been great since.

Getting dark while on Progressive Guy v10

Photo Axel Perschmann

I was able to finish up some climbs I didn't do last spring including the amazing Americana Exotica v9/10. Sorry, no pictures or video. Then I got food poisoning or maybe a stomach flu, and vomited all night. The next day I tried to climb this a cool problem called ultraviolet, and got totally shut down. I guess some rest was needed.

Karma had been nursing a leg injury for the last few weeks, so I tried keeping her on a leash most of the time for a week or so to see if that would clear it up. Unfortunately I noticed she was still limping a little at the end of the day so I decided it was time to take her to the vet.

The vet figured out that her knee was the culprit, and suspected a torn ACL. My brother's dog, and several friend's dogs have had this happen, and it is a costly and long recovery. When the x-ray results were back, I was happy to find that she did NOT have a torn ACL, or at least not fully torn. She could have a partial tear, or something else could be injured in her knee.

The vet recommend that I restrict activity for a week or two. Of course I had already been doing that, but when she said to keep her from going up and down steps if possible, I realized that leashed hiking through canyons instead of unleashed hiking through canyons, probably doesn't constitute the kind of restricted activity the vet had in mind.

So now I have Karma confined to the car and short walks for a couple of weeks, and then probably back to the leash until i'm confident shes back in top form. Poor little doggy.

Karma protesting me putting her on my lap to keep warm, by not posing for the camera.

Photo Axel Perschmann

Having recovered from illness myself, I was able to get back and finished up Book of Nightmares v11/12. Book is a very nice arete climb that involves a combination of technique and power. After falling once after the crux (3rd move), I was able to seal the deal a couple tries later.

Book of Nightmares from Paul Nadler on Vimeo.

Black Lung Attempts

I had a goal this winter to climb Black Lung v13 in Joe's Valley. I have been making progress, but no send yet. Now it looks like a big storm is on the way and I may have to wait. Sometimes these storms pass by though, so I may get more chances. Either way, I'll be heading to Vegas in week or so. I'll just have to see what happens.

One of my best goes so far.

Black Lung Attempt from Paul Nadler on Vimeo.

The cycle of life

Today for something loosely related to climbing.

This is a video of Karma eating a small animal while out climbing one day. Warning! Not for the squeamish.

Karma hunting from Paul Nadler on Vimeo.

On a related theme. Here is the scene I happened across on my return to Joe's Valley. I guess it's lion hunting season.

Slasher Video

Slasher from Paul Nadler on Vimeo.