Friday, August 20, 2010


The coast of BC is an amazing landscape. Driving north on the Sea to Sky from Vancouver to Squamish is one of my favorite drives in North America. I made sure to time the drive during the daylight hours, which also works out with stopping in Vancouver for sushi... a must.

Sea to Sky highway in Squamish

The bouldering in Squamish is no less spectacular. Granite boulders fill the beautiful forest below the chief. Even on a hot day, the huge canopy blocks out most direct sunlight, creating a typically shady experience.

Baba Hari Dass v7/8

Photo Ben Nadler, 2009

Bouldering in Squamish is very movement oriented. Classic lines often have less to do with how they look, and more to do with how they climb. Often the climbing is very subtle, and at times involving something very unexpected or counter-intuitive.

Video still from Encore Une Fois

Squamish has strait-forward power climbing as well. No Troubles is a very good, and popular example of this. Lots of pinches and heal hooking out a steep roof on great rock. You can even lock in a perfect hand jam at the end.

No Troublems v9/10

Paul Nadler on No Troublems from Brock Jensen on Vimeo.

When I first arrived it was very hot (around 90F), but it is cooling off now. The colder temps will bring some great, and hopefully rain free days in the forest. I can't wait.

Sunday, August 8, 2010

Small Arms

I left Colorado about a week ago, stopping in Salt Lake, and continuing on to Squamish. Before I left I managed to climb Small Arms, a nice problem put up recently at Lincoln Lake by Carlo Traversi.

I had basically one day left in CO, and it was 60% to rain up at Evans. The best option was to get a very early start to avoid the afternoon storms. John T. and I hiked in to Lincoln Lake at 6:30 that morning, climbed till about noon, and hiked out just before Evans started getting pummeled by storms. It was a very good last day in the Colorado Mountains.

Small Arms v11/12

Small Arms from Paul Nadler on Vimeo.

Monday, August 2, 2010

Mt. Evans

Weather hasn't been real cooperative, but I'v managed to get a up to Lincoln Lake at Mt. Evans quite a bit recently.

Lincoln Lake

There is a massive talus field at Lincoln, with many large boulders laying against each other. The feel is less like other areas I'v been to at Evans and more reminiscent of the jumbled talus of Chaos canyon. As you might expect, navigation around the boulders can be a bit involved, and the landings range from pretty good to horrific.

Here is a video of me falling off the end of the sit to Unshackled, v10/11.

A cool compression prow I put up on my first day at Lincoln. I called it Contact and its probably in the v6 range.

Photo by Brock Jensen

Refilling on water and soaking in the view down by the lake.

After a day of bouldering, we drove further up the road to have a look around and saw some goats hanging out near summit lake.

The goats running up to the ridge after seeing Karma

Look at the little ones! Aww.

Evans summit road

Driving back down the mountain after sunset