As I mentioned in my last post, I had more climbing related stuff to blog about. I wanted to get video of a fun new problem, Normal Dream v8/9, which I did a little while back with Ben Spannuth. Also, I wanted to do a post about new boulders in general. So yesterday, I got out to Black Velvet again, and got Normal Dream footage. Dave Heerema also nabbed the 3rd ascent, after a very impressive first day in BV, doing Wet Dream Right v11, Fountainhead v9, and getting close on the sit, Atlas Shrugged v12. All of this after doing Lethal Design v12, the previous day. Nice work Dave!
I also gave a good effort on Atlas Shrugged, falling off the lip! Atlas is an amazing boulder problem, one of the best in Red Rocks. It adds some steep compression moves to the already high quality and stout Fountainhead. Without a doubt, I'll be back to finish it up. Just have to give the elbows a few days off from all that squeezing.
Wet Dream is also coming along, but it is so very very hard for me. I've put in so many days already, and I'm honestly not sure I'll be able to do it before heading back to Colorado around the end of the month. Why put so much effort into a hard problem which doesn't suit me? Take one look and the answer to that question should be clear. In my opinion, Wet Dream is hands down, the best boulder problem in Red Rocks, and one of the best I have seen anywhere. So check it out!
Mixing up days trying hard things, I've also spent some time hiking around looking for and climbing new things. It may come as no surprise, but there are still plenty of new boulders to be done around Red Rocks, and even at Kraft. Just get out there at look. If you don't like to hike, just check out some of the projects in Tom's guidebook. That thing is a guide to the past and the future.
So now, after this post got hijacked by recent events at Black Velvet, we get to the video I threw together of some new boulders at Kraft and one at BV. Sorry about the lack of video editing in my videos recently. Editing is very time consuming, and I have plenty of other time consuming things to work on...
The first 3 boulders are on the backside at Kraft. Hike over the saddle, follow the trail till shortly after it splits. There is a black overhanging wall on the side of the cliff, visible from the trail. The project is closer to the wash, in the small cluster of large boulders. I'm not sure if its possible. Normal Dream is at Black Velvet Canyon. Project on p91, #38 of Tom's Guidebook.
Boulders in order. Grades are estimates.
Black Wall Right v9
Black Wall Left v7
Normal Dream, v9.
And another from a while back, also at Kraft. Hovercraft Full of Eels, about v5.
This problem is on a plateau on the swirly cliff, in the Kraft wash (gateway canyon). Hike around back of the cliff and then cut in where you can. it's a red bulged visible from above. If the name confuses you. Google is your friend.
Monday, March 5, 2012
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