Both Sides of the Spectrum

Yesterday I went to RMNP to check out a problem called Both Sides of the Spectrum v12. I had heard really good things about it, and for good reason... it's really good. I didn't do the problem but felt like the session went pretty well. It's hard to tell though since I didn't do a single move. I went there by myself, and without someone to push you through the first move, it would be difficult to try the later moves. I'm hoping though, the later moves which require more balance than power, will not be much of an issue for me. My main concern is whether I am actually close to sticking the initial big throw, or maybe I need to find a way to keep my feet from cutting to have any chance. I'll leave you to judge.

Attempt on Both Sides of the Spectrum:


I ended up splitting my tip. Not really from this problem which isn't sharp, but from having bad skin from climbing at Arthur's Rock previously. Arthur's is sharp, very sharp. Between waiting for skin and having other climbing related plans, BSotS might have to wait. We'll see if it stays cool enough.

On my way out of the park I stopped to take a few pictures. I know, I said my camera is broken, and it is, but not totally. I guess in its current state it's more like using a film camera. I bought a new LCD screen on ebay the other day, which I will attempt to install myself. After that I will only have to deal with the broken auto-focus. Anyways, here is a pic from the other day. Not a bad place to spend the afternoon, eh?

Newlin Creek

On Sunday I made a trip to Newlin Creek for the first time. Tom Camillieri was kind enough to give me a tour of the place. Bottom Line, Newlin is awesome! Its like climbing in the Poudre Canyon, which I think is some of the best quality rock in Colorado. Oddly, these two areas are separated by a couple hundred miles, despite their similarity.

Its getting warm on the front range and the alpine bouldering will probably be melting out soon. Areas like Newlin will be getting a bit warm in the following weeks. I think there are still some good days though, and I'm psyched to get back there before focusing my attention elsewhere for the summer.


Location of Newliw:

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Lumpy Ridge

Saturday I went bouldering at Lumpy Ridge with some friends. Lumpy is typically regarded as a trad climbing area, but has some decent bouldering as well. Typically I avoid places I can't bring my dog, but decided that a day there would be fun. Just had to make sure not to leave too many projects to draw me back.

The day turned out to be great weather, and we climbed a number of Lumpy classics. Dan got some footage of me on Angry Man Left v7 or 8; the short, classic, and less angry of the angry men. The crux for me was keeping this left heal hook from slipping off while making my way to the jug lip of the boulder. In the end I decided I would just swing-campus out to the lip before the foot had a chance to pop. So maybe not the most graceful, but hey, it worked!