tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-23511218541260304072024-03-12T20:21:54.078-07:00Paul Nadlerpaulnadlerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04227813178262333979noreply@blogger.comBlogger37125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2351121854126030407.post-91052050407663147272012-03-05T15:42:00.000-08:002012-03-05T16:14:42.620-08:00New Vegas BouldersAs I mentioned in my last post, I had more climbing related stuff to blog about. I wanted to get video of a fun new problem, Normal Dream v8/9, which I did a little while back with Ben Spannuth. Also, I wanted to do a post about new boulders in general. So yesterday, I got out to Black Velvet again, and got Normal Dream footage. Dave Heerema also nabbed the <a href="http://vimeo.com/37981744" target="_blank">3rd ascent</a>, after a very impressive first day in BV, doing Wet Dream Right v11, Fountainhead v9, and getting close on the sit, Atlas Shrugged v12. All of this after doing Lethal Design v12, the previous day. Nice work Dave!<br />
<br />
I also gave a <a href="http://vimeo.com/37983293" target="_blank">good effort</a> on Atlas Shrugged, falling off the lip! Atlas is an amazing boulder problem, one of the best in Red Rocks. It adds some steep compression moves to the already high quality and stout Fountainhead. Without a doubt, I'll be back to finish it up. Just have to give the elbows a few days off from all that squeezing.<br />
<br />
Wet Dream is also coming along, but it is so very very hard for me. I've put in so many days already, and I'm honestly not sure I'll be able to do it before heading back to Colorado around the end of the month. Why put so much effort into a hard problem which doesn't suit me? Take one look and the answer to that question should be clear. In my opinion, Wet Dream is hands down, the <a href="http://vimeo.com/15618945" target="_blank">best boulder problem</a> in Red Rocks, and one of the best I have seen anywhere. So check it out!<br />
<br />
Mixing up days trying hard things, I've also spent some time hiking around looking for and climbing new things. It may come as no surprise, but there are still plenty of new boulders to be done around Red Rocks, and even at Kraft. Just get out there at look. If you don't like to hike, just check out some of the projects in Tom's guidebook. That thing is a guide to the past and the future.<br />
<br />
So now, after this post got hijacked by recent events at Black Velvet, we get to the video I threw together of some new boulders at Kraft and one at BV. Sorry about the lack of video editing in my videos recently. Editing is very time consuming, and I have plenty of other time consuming things to work on...<br />
<br />
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="278" mozallowfullscreen="" src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/37930129?title=0&byline=0&portrait=0" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="370"></iframe>
<br />
<br />
The first 3 boulders are on the backside at Kraft. Hike over the saddle, follow the trail till shortly after it splits. There is a black overhanging wall on the side of the cliff, visible from the trail. The project is closer to the wash, in the small cluster of large boulders. I'm not sure if its possible. Normal Dream is at Black Velvet Canyon. Project on p91, #38 of Tom's Guidebook.<br />
<br />
Boulders in order. Grades are estimates.<br />
Black Wall Right v9<br />
Black Wall Left v7<br />
Project...<br />
Normal Dream, v9.<br />
<br />
And another from a while back, also at Kraft. Hovercraft Full of Eels, about v5.<br />
<br />
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="493" mozallowfullscreen="" src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/36462737?title=0&byline=0&portrait=0" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="370"></iframe><br />
<br />
<br />
This problem is on a plateau on the swirly cliff, in the Kraft wash (gateway canyon). Hike around back of the cliff and then cut in where you can. it's a red bulged visible from above. If the name confuses you. Google is your friend.paulnadlerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04227813178262333979noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2351121854126030407.post-72530778069843939712012-02-29T20:01:00.002-08:002012-02-29T20:01:54.920-08:00Another Winter in VegasWinter is nearly over, and I haven't written anything since the fall. I've been busy and haven't had anything I really felt like sharing. Since leaving Colorado, after finishing up work around the end of November, I made my way once more to Las Vegas. My Mom lives in Vegas, but probably not for much longer, so it seemed like a good idea to spend another (perhaps last for a while) season climbing at Red Rocks.<br />
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Spending time in Vegas has given me a little extra time, which I have put to good use. As some of you may know, I'm a software engineer, and I have started writing apps for mobile phones running android. I just finished my first app, which is a weather app. It's not exactly designed for climbers, but I was definitely trying to create the app that I would want as a climber.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
When I look at the weather before going climbing, I like to use NOAA point forecasts like <a href="http://forecast.weather.gov/MapClick.php?lat=39.61653236207407&lon=-105.59869766235352" target="_blank">this</a> to get the weather for Lincoln Lake (for example), not the weather for Idaho Springs, or Denver. This is exactly how my weather app get its data. With the app though, you don't have to scroll around the map looking for the remote area you want a forecast for, since smart phones can pull down your location from GPS, cell towers, or WiFi. Also, you can load up the radar, and spot any nearby storms in the area before they come flying in over the ridge-line. Beats the normal 3 seconds you get to gather pads and take shelter from the rain, hail, and lighting! I wonder if you get cell service on Longs?</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
So that's my plug, if you have an android phone, check it out. "Weather Here" on the Android Market. There are free and paid versions. <a href="https://market.android.com/developer?pub=N+Studio" target="_blank">https://market.android.com/developer?pub=N+Studio</a>. If you find it useful, please leave a high rating in the app store. Sorry if you have an IPhone, maybe I'll be able to port it over at some point.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
I should have some more material to post on Red Rocks soon, but for now I leave you with just a few photos from the last months.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vjPYBAWBGYk/T07t44nws9I/AAAAAAAAAdU/Of3ZmXFPeVc/s1600/kraft_view.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="265" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vjPYBAWBGYk/T07t44nws9I/AAAAAAAAAdU/Of3ZmXFPeVc/s400/kraft_view.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hiking with Karma back over the saddle at Kraft, after a day of looking for new boulders.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-FyKh6f2u6I8/T07t_-YkMqI/AAAAAAAAAdc/lwdbwyFkcRc/s1600/alex_hat.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-FyKh6f2u6I8/T07t_-YkMqI/AAAAAAAAAdc/lwdbwyFkcRc/s400/alex_hat.JPG" width="265" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Alex Johnson climbing Fear of a Black Hat v9 at Kraft.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YeT_zgIJiiQ/T07uHj1qLAI/AAAAAAAAAdk/qv3RheC9MgM/s1600/josh_clockwork.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YeT_zgIJiiQ/T07uHj1qLAI/AAAAAAAAAdk/qv3RheC9MgM/s400/josh_clockwork.JPG" width="265" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Josh Muller giving some good efforts on Clockwork Orange v12, Kraft.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QAd72WNlQkI/T07uPerOnYI/AAAAAAAAAds/BCRXAHSYSQs/s1600/julie_porkchop.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="265" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QAd72WNlQkI/T07uPerOnYI/AAAAAAAAAds/BCRXAHSYSQs/s400/julie_porkchop.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Julia Smith climbing Porkchop v2, Kraft Wash. Probably the best easy problem in Red Rocks. PORKCHOP!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-veKezGNWbLE/T07ud0AfYSI/AAAAAAAAAd8/cwKfFEXYVeA/s1600/alex_leathal_2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-veKezGNWbLE/T07ud0AfYSI/AAAAAAAAAd8/cwKfFEXYVeA/s400/alex_leathal_2.JPG" width="265" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Alex Johnson crushing Leathal Designs v12. She did it so fast I didn't have time to get my camera out for any of the low moves!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="208" mozallowfullscreen="" src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/36571227?title=0&byline=0&portrait=0" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="370"></iframe>
</td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And check out Ben Spannuth with a very impressive near flash of the same problem!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div>
PORKCHOP!</div>paulnadlerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04227813178262333979noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2351121854126030407.post-46870291412090075762011-11-08T20:46:00.000-08:002011-11-11T18:32:12.237-08:00Washington<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Some more back blogging, this time from Washington. After getting rained out in Squamish, I bailed to Leavenworth for a couple of weeks in October.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qE4sYJxhg5A/Tra2ewsjAbI/AAAAAAAAAcU/4QNZ3v5IsQs/s1600/_DSC0822_2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="265" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qE4sYJxhg5A/Tra2ewsjAbI/AAAAAAAAAcU/4QNZ3v5IsQs/s400/_DSC0822_2.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rob Guinn flashing Pimpsqueak v9.<br />
Maybe the best problem in Leavenworth.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/--vRtpFFtHBU/Tra2g9b6esI/AAAAAAAAAcc/ZTvPDjF6jT4/s1600/_DSC0833_2.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="273" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/--vRtpFFtHBU/Tra2g9b6esI/AAAAAAAAAcc/ZTvPDjF6jT4/s400/_DSC0833_2.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
Rob and I also spent a day in Gold Bar. It was cool to see the area and climb a few problems. The rock quality in Gold Bar was very good, just like I had been told. The rock and the setting, specially in the forest, reminded me quite a lot of Squamish. Will be nice to get back there and also check out Index.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Nc_CS21fbUw/Tra2j3TUFpI/AAAAAAAAAck/ZtfAbq6Yc0Q/s1600/_DSC0841+%2528Modified+in+GIMP+Image+Editor%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Nc_CS21fbUw/Tra2j3TUFpI/AAAAAAAAAck/ZtfAbq6Yc0Q/s320/_DSC0841+%2528Modified+in+GIMP+Image+Editor%2529.JPG" width="212" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The moss covered forest of Gold Bar, WA.<br />
Karma is probably thinking, "why am I suppose to stand on this log?"</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
On my last day in Leavenworth I managed to do the first ascent of a project on the backside of the shield boulder in lower forestland. Autopilot starts on Cruise Control, and climbs up and left across the face. I think its around v11, but I'm never very sure about grades. Perhaps it is more difficult.<br />
<br />
Sam Johnson put together a nice video over at <a href="http://www.koanbouldering.com/2011/10/paul-nadler.html">Koan Bouldering</a><br />
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="300" src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/31299296?title=0&byline=0&portrait=0" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="400"></iframe><br />
<a href="http://vimeo.com/31299296">Autopilot FA</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user1744487">Sam Johnson</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com/">Vimeo</a>.<br />
<br />
I also made a quick stop at an area called Tum Tum. Named after the nearby city, Tum Tum is a small area close to Spokane. The rock there is ok, and there are some cool problems. It's not a destination, but if your around Spokane and want to do a little bouldering, check it out!<br />
<br />
Here is a photo of a fun new problem I did in Tum Tum. I'm calling Rule of Thumb, in reference to a key thumb catch (kind of a week connection but whatever). It's probably around v10.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-HJPngwzAphc/Tra2mFM1AcI/AAAAAAAAAcs/OMx3wSbOFVc/s1600/Rule_of_thumb.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-HJPngwzAphc/Tra2mFM1AcI/AAAAAAAAAcs/OMx3wSbOFVc/s320/Rule_of_thumb.JPG" width="224" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rule of Thumb v10, TumTum, WA.<br />
Photo Jon Eastman</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Now I'm back in Colorado for a month of work. Then back west!paulnadlerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04227813178262333979noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2351121854126030407.post-25337510365666644682011-11-08T17:53:00.000-08:002011-11-08T17:53:06.828-08:00Squamish<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-F-zSIU9m2-Q/TrawV5Y3vSI/AAAAAAAAAZw/9_0DO9TZYJ8/s1600/_DSC0639.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="265" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-F-zSIU9m2-Q/TrawV5Y3vSI/AAAAAAAAAZw/9_0DO9TZYJ8/s400/_DSC0639.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View of Squamish from on top of the Chief</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div>
After going without a computer for a couple months, I finally have a new laptop. Now I can share some photos from my time in Squamish during the summer and early fall.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oUoxS6W0zY8/TrawulYEQQI/AAAAAAAAAa4/R_6DGxUYScQ/s1600/_DSC0792.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="265" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oUoxS6W0zY8/TrawulYEQQI/AAAAAAAAAa4/R_6DGxUYScQ/s400/_DSC0792.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-j053dAeOhZU/TrawxveE89I/AAAAAAAAAbA/mV0nPcBElbg/s1600/_DSC0798.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="265" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-j053dAeOhZU/TrawxveE89I/AAAAAAAAAbA/mV0nPcBElbg/s400/_DSC0798.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">By the water</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-DGsHCy9Ut3c/TrawsffuxhI/AAAAAAAAAaw/cvlPxJ_dzU0/s1600/_DSC0770.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="265" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-DGsHCy9Ut3c/TrawsffuxhI/AAAAAAAAAaw/cvlPxJ_dzU0/s400/_DSC0770.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Alex Savage attempting the very tall "World of Hurt", v10</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TxqC6BYbycE/TrawaCKeA4I/AAAAAAAAAaA/7oQFy_o52Yc/s1600/_DSC0661.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="265" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TxqC6BYbycE/TrawaCKeA4I/AAAAAAAAAaA/7oQFy_o52Yc/s400/_DSC0661.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">All you can eat sushi in Vancouver! (sorry about my bad aim Asher)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TErNZOw5hcU/TrawzLle1mI/AAAAAAAAAbY/r-IAIykZvxs/s1600/IMG_1536.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TErNZOw5hcU/TrawzLle1mI/AAAAAAAAAbY/r-IAIykZvxs/s400/IMG_1536.jpg" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me working on Black Slabath, v8. <br />
Photo Brooks Walker</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0CrTPYzs72A/TrawRnTJeEI/AAAAAAAAAZo/4AwDKAaJ32g/s1600/323630_10100339681203011_7014957_51216273_24873_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="298" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0CrTPYzs72A/TrawRnTJeEI/AAAAAAAAAZo/4AwDKAaJ32g/s400/323630_10100339681203011_7014957_51216273_24873_o.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And more sushi!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-zfCejBJbFeQ/TrawcrNaInI/AAAAAAAAAaI/Xb98vsie6hs/s1600/_DSC0673.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="265" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-zfCejBJbFeQ/TrawcrNaInI/AAAAAAAAAaI/Xb98vsie6hs/s400/_DSC0673.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sarah Clark warming up on Titanic, v3.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ft5blDsw6VQ/Trawf3xEPRI/AAAAAAAAAaQ/kh1ubMabl1w/s1600/_DSC0682.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="265" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ft5blDsw6VQ/Trawf3xEPRI/AAAAAAAAAaQ/kh1ubMabl1w/s400/_DSC0682.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And then at the Fuzz, contemplating the nature of the universe?</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wwY1Hlu3rFs/Traw2s6wpwI/AAAAAAAAAcA/ZVqihC61o_o/s1600/P1040272.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wwY1Hlu3rFs/Traw2s6wpwI/AAAAAAAAAcA/ZVqihC61o_o/s400/P1040272.jpg" width="333" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me climbing Ride the Waves, V7.<br />
Photo Alex Savage</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ofXNNvaH0AE/TrawYfjHFrI/AAAAAAAAAZ4/5QjhtIxi0JM/s1600/_DSC0656.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="265" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ofXNNvaH0AE/TrawYfjHFrI/AAAAAAAAAZ4/5QjhtIxi0JM/s400/_DSC0656.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mr. Chipmunk</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>paulnadlerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04227813178262333979noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2351121854126030407.post-85689540239868608852011-09-26T17:07:00.000-07:002011-09-26T17:10:21.188-07:00The RainI haven't been blogging lately, but I have a pretty good excuse. My computer stopped working and I haven't found a replacement yet. I'm writing now from the public library, which works well enough. I can't access any photos from my camera though, so I don't have a whole lot to share.<br />
<br />
So what's going on right now? Well, I'm in Squamish, and it's raining. No real surprise there, but this time of year when it starts raining, you start to question if it will dry up again before the rainy season is in full force. It's no mystery then, why so many climbers have fled to inland areas, seeking dryer weather.<br />
<br />
For now though, I am sticking around. I'm holding out hope that some good fall conditions are still to come. Perhaps it's that my elbow has been hurting, and I figure a little rest will do it good. Or maybe it's that I'm just not ready to be done climbing here. I have always been a little uncertain about which bouldering area was my favorite, but my recent time here in Squamish has crystallized my view on the matter. I have come to believe that Squamish is the best bouldering in North America, and I'm not leaving without a fight!<br />
<br />paulnadlerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04227813178262333979noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2351121854126030407.post-32129704929697904062011-08-08T15:46:00.000-07:002011-08-08T15:47:55.793-07:00Mt. Evans 2Echo Lake
<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FHdqGH1Q-lk/TjuNIAYrrKI/AAAAAAAAAV8/ebybxYf4txY/s1600/_DSC0626.JPG"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 266px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FHdqGH1Q-lk/TjuNIAYrrKI/AAAAAAAAAV8/ebybxYf4txY/s400/_DSC0626.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5637254527266303138" /></a>
<br />
<br />My time in Colorado is over the for the summer. Moving on to Squamish, one of my favorite bouldering destinations. For now though, I still have some things to share from some great least weeks in the Colorado alpine area, Mt Evans.
<br />
<br />Lincoln Lake
<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tkIXTP_oseA/TjuNIy2o0YI/AAAAAAAAAWM/JHDlYsH2hLw/s1600/_DSC0581.JPG"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 266px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tkIXTP_oseA/TjuNIy2o0YI/AAAAAAAAAWM/JHDlYsH2hLw/s400/_DSC0581.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5637254540813717890" /></a>
<br />
<br />I put up a fun problem on the smallish boulder behind Guillotine. It's called Lincoln Egg, in reference to its remarkable similarity to the Egg in Squamish. Just a bit easier at around v6.
<br />
<br />Jason getting ready to do the crux.
<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fAB8RNVrZ14/TjuNJftKkwI/AAAAAAAAAWc/qpPety5B4Ik/s1600/_DSC0538.JPG"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 266px; height: 400px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fAB8RNVrZ14/TjuNJftKkwI/AAAAAAAAAWc/qpPety5B4Ik/s400/_DSC0538.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5637254552853582594" /></a>
<br />
<br />Paul sticking the lunge to the lip.
<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4jvnIBf4vwY/TjuNJPpBp9I/AAAAAAAAAWU/G0Xl0HvlKcE/s1600/_DSC0557.JPG"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 266px; height: 400px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4jvnIBf4vwY/TjuNJPpBp9I/AAAAAAAAAWU/G0Xl0HvlKcE/s400/_DSC0557.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5637254548541253586" /></a>
<br />
<br />Jason and his pup.
<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-q5zKRPkhjnw/TjuNISSzU9I/AAAAAAAAAWE/4HSnU5cY-BA/s1600/_DSC0608.JPG"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 266px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-q5zKRPkhjnw/TjuNISSzU9I/AAAAAAAAAWE/4HSnU5cY-BA/s400/_DSC0608.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5637254532073477074" /></a>
<br />
<br />This summer so far has been mostly about getting back in shape, but I managed to get one of my projects done as well.
<br />Bebe Wolverine v12
<br /><iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/27275097" width="400" height="300" frameborder="0"></iframe><p><a href="http://vimeo.com/27275097">Bebe Wolverine</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user1278094">Paul Nadler</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p>
<br />
<br />I spent several days climbing up at area E also. I repeated a couple of problems and put a few new ones.
<br />
<br />This problem is on the back side of the Cell Block E boulder.
<br />FA of Entangled V7
<br /><iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/26874757" width="400" height="225" frameborder="0"></iframe><p><a href="http://vimeo.com/26874757">Entangled v7</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user3347032">BS</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p>
<br />You can see some other awesome problems on the Cell Block E boulder at on Ben Scott's Vimeo page.
<br /><a href="http://www.vimeo.com/user3347032/videos">http://www.vimeo.com/user3347032/videos</a>
<br />
<br />A little further up and to the left you can find this amazing compression problem.
<br />FA of Boomerang v5.
<br /><iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/27274494" width="400" height="533" frameborder="0"></iframe><p><a href="http://vimeo.com/27274494">Boomerang</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user1278094">Paul Nadler</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p>
<br />
<br />As expected, there were plenty of goats wandering around.
<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5VjKPsQ2ghU/TjuQQo3X-_I/AAAAAAAAAXE/bBqa2gFpv0M/s1600/_DSC0389.JPG"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 253px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5VjKPsQ2ghU/TjuQQo3X-_I/AAAAAAAAAXE/bBqa2gFpv0M/s400/_DSC0389.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5637257974106291186" /></a>
<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/--UWycsgNGYA/TjuQjO0OREI/AAAAAAAAAXU/cYgZ5nKcd-w/s1600/_DSC0365.JPG"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 266px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/--UWycsgNGYA/TjuQjO0OREI/AAAAAAAAAXU/cYgZ5nKcd-w/s400/_DSC0365.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5637258293531264066" /></a>
<br />
<br />What I didn't expect however, was I would be adding to my list of less than ideal ways to be woken up. Previously the list included other people driving into my car. Now I can also add, waking up to a bear walking across the roof of my car. I was parked at Echo lake and woke to the car moving around. Karma was alert and I saw a big black object hop down and wander off to the nearby dumpsters. Several days later I again woke, this time to the sound of Karma barking. I saw mr. black bear peering right into the window at me. I doubt he could see with the tint, but was clearly curious. I grabbed my camera, but Karma's barking scared him off before I could take a picture. Would have been a cool picture, but was definitely happy to see the bear scared off. Go Karma!
<br />
<br />Paw print.
<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-27aEyXbdg2s/TjuQPiJjdlI/AAAAAAAAAWs/003XXLgM3Aw/s1600/_DSC0485.JPG"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 266px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-27aEyXbdg2s/TjuQPiJjdlI/AAAAAAAAAWs/003XXLgM3Aw/s400/_DSC0485.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5637257955123623506" /></a>
<br />
<br />Some scratches on the window.
<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-UBMeibjxpyM/TjuQPcRdqRI/AAAAAAAAAWk/Yjw9x7o5Jeo/s1600/_DSC0486.JPG"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 266px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-UBMeibjxpyM/TjuQPcRdqRI/AAAAAAAAAWk/Yjw9x7o5Jeo/s400/_DSC0486.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5637257953546184978" /></a>paulnadlerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04227813178262333979noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2351121854126030407.post-44475266258257467622011-07-20T00:20:00.000-07:002011-07-20T00:25:05.293-07:00Mt. Evans<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RVmePRS4960/TiXXVUFzFSI/AAAAAAAAAS8/zws89zBbl8Y/s1600/_DSC9971.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 261px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RVmePRS4960/TiXXVUFzFSI/AAAAAAAAAS8/zws89zBbl8Y/s400/_DSC9971.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5631143670266926370" /></a><br /><br />It's been a couple months since my last post, but thats just the way it is sometimes. I've been busy with all sorts of things, working, climbing, helping family move things across the country, etc. Increasingly i'm spending more of my time at Mt. Evans, my favorite of the alpine bouldering areas. Lincoln Lake has been the primary destination. Getting the finger back to strength, hanging out with friends, and avoiding rain. <br /><br />My first day at Lincoln, just after the summit road opened up, I was actually planning to ski at A-basin. For whatever reason, I ended up going to Lincoln instead with Ivelin Penchev. I had no crash pad with me, but I did have my skies, and the hillside above the lake was still covered with snow. What better way to approach? <br /><br />Ivo took video and provided me with a screen capture. You may have to click on the Image to make it big enough to actually see me.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XS_eE3LvA-k/TiXtRZtktKI/AAAAAAAAAUs/k9XmFLM3Qcw/s1600/skiing_001.jpg"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 225px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XS_eE3LvA-k/TiXtRZtktKI/AAAAAAAAAUs/k9XmFLM3Qcw/s400/skiing_001.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5631167792312267938" /></a><br /><br />As I got towards the bottom, I noticed Karma running across the hillside towards me. I had sent her with Ivo, thinking it might be hard for her to follow me, but I guess she got pscyhed and wanted to join in. Karma followed behind me the rest of the way and we cruised right up to the beginning of the boulders.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lvRq0rCywG8/TiXtRs6HkPI/AAAAAAAAAU0/YMF3YQSC1s8/s1600/skiing_002.jpg"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 225px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lvRq0rCywG8/TiXtRs6HkPI/AAAAAAAAAU0/YMF3YQSC1s8/s400/skiing_002.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5631167797465157874" /></a><br /><br /><br />Snow on one side, beach on the other. After enough snow melts, the water level rises and this boulder goes under water for the remainder of the season.<br /><br />Me climbing Beach Party Sit v4.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mB_NkYZ-Mk0/TiZiHASDbiI/AAAAAAAAAVE/WPb5aoOj9gc/s1600/241431_760883641303_38212027_38693471_6904850_o.jpg"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 266px; height: 400px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mB_NkYZ-Mk0/TiZiHASDbiI/AAAAAAAAAVE/WPb5aoOj9gc/s400/241431_760883641303_38212027_38693471_6904850_o.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5631296256547712546" /></a><br />Photo Chad Nichols<br /><br />Me climbing Lincoln Pinch v6, while snow is still covering the death landing.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-F-qsReihNdI/TiZiGrFeh1I/AAAAAAAAAU8/El_yGfvkPjE/s1600/Paul_Nadler_on_Lincoln_Pinch_mt_evans.jpg"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 267px; height: 400px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-F-qsReihNdI/TiZiGrFeh1I/AAAAAAAAAU8/El_yGfvkPjE/s400/Paul_Nadler_on_Lincoln_Pinch_mt_evans.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5631296250857817938" /></a><br />Photo <a href="http://www.lovechclimbing.com/">Ivelin Penchev</a><br /><br />Nik Vukovich doing backflips off of boulders. For some reason...<br /><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-YmJB000JDCI/TiXXVkqCUpI/AAAAAAAAATE/THRIk54cFGA/s1600/_DSC9888.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 266px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-YmJB000JDCI/TiXXVkqCUpI/AAAAAAAAATE/THRIk54cFGA/s400/_DSC9888.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5631143674713887378" /></a><br /><br />Rest days are great for exploring the other parts of the mountain. There are always more boulders to check out if your willing to hike far enough. Usually the view is pretty nice too, and lots of wildlife.<br /><br />Chicago Lakes.<br /><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sB6zV2KbPvk/TiXYfcYAQrI/AAAAAAAAAUE/3rc4NK2bJ-E/s1600/_DSC0090.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 266px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sB6zV2KbPvk/TiXYfcYAQrI/AAAAAAAAAUE/3rc4NK2bJ-E/s400/_DSC0090.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5631144943801090738" /></a><br /><br />John Gass sticking the lip, instead of crushing Karma.<br /><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-m6aoh25YXYI/TiXYgHj5l5I/AAAAAAAAAUU/bClVNYMc9Rc/s1600/_DSC0056.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 266px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-m6aoh25YXYI/TiXYgHj5l5I/AAAAAAAAAUU/bClVNYMc9Rc/s400/_DSC0056.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5631144955393709970" /></a><br /><br />Taking in the view.<br /><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-i9y211_ahNY/TiXYf1xsUVI/AAAAAAAAAUM/uDcBpgc5kNs/s1600/_DSC0074.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 266px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-i9y211_ahNY/TiXYf1xsUVI/AAAAAAAAAUM/uDcBpgc5kNs/s400/_DSC0074.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5631144950619722066" /></a><br /><br /><br />The other side of the mountain.<br /><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kw2EdQ9hFXU/TiXYAcXDbRI/AAAAAAAAATs/Io0kN-Ugehw/s1600/_DSC0192.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 266px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kw2EdQ9hFXU/TiXYAcXDbRI/AAAAAAAAATs/Io0kN-Ugehw/s400/_DSC0192.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5631144411221159186" /></a><br /><br /><br />Chilling in the meadows.<br /><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ENyRhSgnTcE/TiXYBFGBkUI/AAAAAAAAAT8/JDg5Pg2vlAU/s1600/_DSC0171.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 266px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ENyRhSgnTcE/TiXYBFGBkUI/AAAAAAAAAT8/JDg5Pg2vlAU/s400/_DSC0171.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5631144422155587906" /></a><br /><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-i0jwitLQpRM/TiXYA6hftQI/AAAAAAAAAT0/Kthratg5v98/s1600/_DSC0181.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 266px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-i0jwitLQpRM/TiXYA6hftQI/AAAAAAAAAT0/Kthratg5v98/s400/_DSC0181.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5631144419318019330" /></a><br /><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-S9EzsBpX0W4/TiXYAKwuh-I/AAAAAAAAATk/tDsyl3T0PMw/s1600/_DSC0203.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 266px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-S9EzsBpX0W4/TiXYAKwuh-I/AAAAAAAAATk/tDsyl3T0PMw/s400/_DSC0203.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5631144406497003490" /></a><br /><br />Can't forget the goats!<br /><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-iAhKxxyOj4U/TiXXW8x9LJI/AAAAAAAAATU/_kQ5IhzRAKA/s1600/_DSC0267.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 266px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-iAhKxxyOj4U/TiXXW8x9LJI/AAAAAAAAATU/_kQ5IhzRAKA/s400/_DSC0267.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5631143698369424530" /></a><br /><br />A little one.<br /><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-HBXCwzl0kH4/TiXX_srUkiI/AAAAAAAAATc/XzU6Y1zAbJo/s1600/_DSC0247.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 266px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-HBXCwzl0kH4/TiXX_srUkiI/AAAAAAAAATc/XzU6Y1zAbJo/s400/_DSC0247.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5631144398421266978" /></a><br /><br />A big one.<br /><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kvCVSGIOXBU/TiXXWXSXySI/AAAAAAAAATM/nxutMkhEKxc/s1600/_DSC0277.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 266px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kvCVSGIOXBU/TiXXWXSXySI/AAAAAAAAATM/nxutMkhEKxc/s400/_DSC0277.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5631143688304838946" /></a>paulnadlerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04227813178262333979noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2351121854126030407.post-38001135706455980282011-04-21T00:39:00.000-07:002011-04-21T00:40:10.928-07:00Three days on the front rangeI have been keeping pretty busy during my down-time from climbing. Getting out and having fun in the mountains in ways that don't require pulling on rock.<br /><br />Day 1: The Monastery, near RMNP.<br /><br />I went with some friends to the Monastery to hang out. The Monastery is one of the coolest (mostly) sport climbing areas on the front range. It doesn't see a lot of attention perhaps because of the fairly long hike, but there are some amazing routes there! Anyone that likes to climb on ropes and hasn't been there is missing out.<br /><br />Jeff Giddings climbing Contortionist's Forte 5.11c (mixed)<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9LLbpwfCuUI/Ta8-MniJuII/AAAAAAAAAQA/IrCeWu3-ZWU/s1600/_DSC9619.JPG"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 266px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9LLbpwfCuUI/Ta8-MniJuII/AAAAAAAAAQA/IrCeWu3-ZWU/s400/_DSC9619.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5597761248336394370" /></a><br /><br />Dusty Ross working The Quickening 5.13c<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-oJPe_yOoovU/Ta8-N_i7CKI/AAAAAAAAAQQ/dzScOIG47hM/s1600/_DSC9693.JPG"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 266px; height: 400px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-oJPe_yOoovU/Ta8-N_i7CKI/AAAAAAAAAQQ/dzScOIG47hM/s400/_DSC9693.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5597761271961946274" /></a><br /><br /><br />Day 2: Gray Rock, Poudre Canyon.<br /><br />Gray Rock is an obvious choice for a hike near Fort Collins. It's so close, just a little ways up the Poudre Canyon. Mike Engelstad, Karma and myself got up early on a windy day, and made our way to the summit. <br /><br />Gray Rock getting into view from the trail.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-NE0yRY6eeOg/Ta8-z_y19uI/AAAAAAAAAQY/WQWqfffX5SQ/s1600/_DSC9722.JPG"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 266px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-NE0yRY6eeOg/Ta8-z_y19uI/AAAAAAAAAQY/WQWqfffX5SQ/s400/_DSC9722.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5597761924863751906" /></a><br /><br />Another view from the trail.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XU19AIjsSZg/Ta8-0fM0f0I/AAAAAAAAAQg/stvU9owW0uw/s1600/_DSC9713.JPG"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 238px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XU19AIjsSZg/Ta8-0fM0f0I/AAAAAAAAAQg/stvU9owW0uw/s400/_DSC9713.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5597761933294206786" /></a><br /><br />Mike climbing on the meadow boulder.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-8eKiw29EjZY/Ta8-1OP2-7I/AAAAAAAAAQo/bybIG3bso1g/s1600/_DSC9756.JPG"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 266px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-8eKiw29EjZY/Ta8-1OP2-7I/AAAAAAAAAQo/bybIG3bso1g/s400/_DSC9756.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5597761945923419058" /></a><br /><br />Me on top!<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tAVtfuy1tYE/Ta8-1oSndPI/AAAAAAAAAQw/1E-XqkPFd50/s1600/_DSC9787.JPG"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 266px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tAVtfuy1tYE/Ta8-1oSndPI/AAAAAAAAAQw/1E-XqkPFd50/s400/_DSC9787.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5597761952914306290" /></a><br />Photo Mike Engelstad<br /><br /><br />Day 3: Fern Lake, RMNP<br /><br />There are a number of places I want to hike to around on the front range to see if there might be some good boulders to climb on. Fern Lake was on the list because the rock along the trail (Rock of Ages / Both Sides of the Spectrum) is so good. I thought, if there were more at Fern/Cub lakes it might be worth the long hike.<br /> <br />So when deciding where to go skiing, Fern Lake trail head seemed like a decent enough choice. Again with Mike, we got some skies and skins and started on our way. In the end, we didn't see enough boulers to make me want to go back, but we did have an amazing time skiing! The trail itself was a mix of hiking at lower elevation, and then skiing when the trail turned to snow up high.<br /><br />After arriving, we made our way across Fern Lake to check out a couloir on the nearby mountain.<br /><br />Mike skiing across the snow covered Fern Lake.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-WUm0iBy5SHk/Ta8_bBb4QrI/AAAAAAAAAQ4/5t-BLDh8FWQ/s1600/_DSC9813.JPG"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 266px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-WUm0iBy5SHk/Ta8_bBb4QrI/AAAAAAAAAQ4/5t-BLDh8FWQ/s400/_DSC9813.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5597762595319202482" /></a><br /><br />The couloir looked promising, so we slowly hiked our way up. After getting pretty far and starting to run out of snow, we stopped and converted our skis to downhill mode. We then made our decent which was definitely the highlight of the day.<br /><br />Mike taking off down the mountain.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HgC2vnS3Cjc/Ta8_biTZrlI/AAAAAAAAARA/dYTOFbE6R6w/s1600/_DSC9871.JPG"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 266px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HgC2vnS3Cjc/Ta8_biTZrlI/AAAAAAAAARA/dYTOFbE6R6w/s400/_DSC9871.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5597762604142014034" /></a><br /><br />Mike carefully navigating between the trees and scree.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Q-qnRPREqQU/Ta8_cFx8QII/AAAAAAAAARI/soGWlYeElyY/s1600/_DSC9860.JPG"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 266px; height: 400px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Q-qnRPREqQU/Ta8_cFx8QII/AAAAAAAAARI/soGWlYeElyY/s400/_DSC9860.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5597762613665349762" /></a>paulnadlerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04227813178262333979noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2351121854126030407.post-6704625581227958802011-04-08T15:27:00.000-07:002011-04-08T15:29:10.414-07:00Pre-Injury Joe's RecapWhen I first got to Joe's this spring there wern't too many people, but my friend Enzo Nahumury was there already.<br /><br />Enzo and I crossed the stream to go clean snow off of Moment of Truth. On the way back we found that the ice we walked over on had broken and fallen into the river. Jumping was the best option.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ih2SxPhq3yo/TZ9ytncBqOI/AAAAAAAAAP0/vPjykz9aYDw/s1600/IMG_5593.JPG"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ih2SxPhq3yo/TZ9ytncBqOI/AAAAAAAAAP0/vPjykz9aYDw/s400/IMG_5593.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5593315390223657186" /></a><br />Photo <a href="http://enzonahumury.nl/">Enzo Nahumury</a><br /><br />Enzo demonstrating how to gather firewood.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-b4y3A48sWzo/TZ9n-216UzI/AAAAAAAAAO0/EFAeZ-AJ_JU/s1600/_DSC9510%2B%2528Modified%2Bin%2BGIMP%2BImage%2BEditor%2529.JPG"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 266px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-b4y3A48sWzo/TZ9n-216UzI/AAAAAAAAAO0/EFAeZ-AJ_JU/s400/_DSC9510%2B%2528Modified%2Bin%2BGIMP%2BImage%2BEditor%2529.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5593303591788630834" /></a><br /><br />I started working on Black Lung right away, and other projects and climbs I hadn't yet done in Joe's.<br /><br />Working Black Lung, before the finger decided otherwise.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ENe_z6wfDmo/TZ9n-lzVoII/AAAAAAAAAOs/SKTz6EAKNHk/s1600/Paul_Nadler_on_Black_Lung_Joe%2527s_Valley_Utah_002.jpg"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 267px; height: 400px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ENe_z6wfDmo/TZ9n-lzVoII/AAAAAAAAAOs/SKTz6EAKNHk/s400/Paul_Nadler_on_Black_Lung_Joe%2527s_Valley_Utah_002.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5593303587214434434" /></a><br />Photo <a href="http://www.lovechclimbing.com">Ivelin Penchev</a><br /><br />I did manage some of the climbs on my list for the spring. I did Jitterbug Perfume v10 quickly, after climbing to the lip 3 times last winter and backing off due to an icy top-out. I climbed Bowling Ball v4 for the first time. It was amazing! I also climbed Eden v10 while Alex Savage was there filming. He didn't think he would use the footage, so he gave it to me to post.<br /><br />Eden<br /><iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/22110557" width="400" height="225" frameborder="0"></iframe><p><a href="http://vimeo.com/22110557">Eden</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user1278094">Paul Nadler</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.<br /><br />Most people find the crux of Eden to be this half one-arm pull off a hard to figure out how to hold split finger crimpy thing. I however, couldn't manage to stick the "easier" big move to the split finger. Coming close with beta that my friend Criag Berman was using, I decided to focus on his method. After eventually sticking the big move, I immediately realized I wanted my foot higher. I put my foot in the big pod, my hand slipped, but I managed to hold on. I was then able to lock off to the hold people usually jump to. It worked for me, but I don't know if it would be good beta for many others.<br /><br />Alex getting way up into a tree, attempting to get the best angle at Trent's Mom.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-PZA5gs5tV8s/TZ9ytDlAymI/AAAAAAAAAPs/dj71ja-uEs0/s1600/_DSC9526.JPG"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 267px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-PZA5gs5tV8s/TZ9ytDlAymI/AAAAAAAAAPs/dj71ja-uEs0/s400/_DSC9526.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5593315380597672546" /></a><br /><br />Tom Camillieri going into the crack on Trent's Mom ;)<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2E3-ug9Y3IM/TZ9ys1m8WiI/AAAAAAAAAPk/thGkuDtV8uE/s1600/_DSC9532.JPG"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 266px; height: 400px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2E3-ug9Y3IM/TZ9ys1m8WiI/AAAAAAAAAPk/thGkuDtV8uE/s400/_DSC9532.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5593315376847673890" /></a><br /><br />After hurting my finger, I was considering staying a few days and hiking around, but Joe's had other plans. We woke to a camp covered with a couple inches of snow.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ijOwPQZy5fs/TZ9yIc-mHNI/AAAAAAAAAPE/ts3PrLGlbRQ/s1600/_DSC9547.JPG"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 266px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ijOwPQZy5fs/TZ9yIc-mHNI/AAAAAAAAAPE/ts3PrLGlbRQ/s400/_DSC9547.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5593314751760702674" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-goJsKNr9V6A/TZ9yJM7USxI/AAAAAAAAAPU/ROLo7tjprNE/s1600/_DSC9572.JPG"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 266px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-goJsKNr9V6A/TZ9yJM7USxI/AAAAAAAAAPU/ROLo7tjprNE/s400/_DSC9572.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5593314764631853842" /></a><br /><br />John waking up to a surprise!<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-VEcxQ4GoM1w/TZ9yIM2M3lI/AAAAAAAAAO8/xEjSGQ-C0i0/s1600/_DSC9560.JPG"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 266px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-VEcxQ4GoM1w/TZ9yIM2M3lI/AAAAAAAAAO8/xEjSGQ-C0i0/s400/_DSC9560.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5593314747430526546" /></a><br /><br />Karma not being opposed to the situation.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-NqQdI65t-Vk/TZ9yJZs17pI/AAAAAAAAAPc/ZapS8aVp3UE/s1600/_DSC9545.JPG"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 266px; height: 400px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-NqQdI65t-Vk/TZ9yJZs17pI/AAAAAAAAAPc/ZapS8aVp3UE/s400/_DSC9545.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5593314768060804754" /></a><br /><br />Ivelin enthusiastically taking a photo?<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XB05Fx-5cQg/TZ9yI4swe4I/AAAAAAAAAPM/drk43fNQOv4/s1600/_DSC9550.JPG"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 266px; height: 400px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XB05Fx-5cQg/TZ9yI4swe4I/AAAAAAAAAPM/drk43fNQOv4/s400/_DSC9550.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5593314759202077570" /></a><br /><br />The Denver crew managed to get get some things dry and have a good climbing day. The hiking situation still seemed bleak, so I made my way back to the front range.paulnadlerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04227813178262333979noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2351121854126030407.post-74965718145797640022011-04-04T16:52:00.001-07:002011-04-04T18:22:35.710-07:00Another Finger Injury<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Gv3ePQEPQuw/TZpT61IfCBI/AAAAAAAAAOU/mHFSIe5ODGI/s1600/Paul_hands.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 267px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Gv3ePQEPQuw/TZpT61IfCBI/AAAAAAAAAOU/mHFSIe5ODGI/s400/Paul_hands.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5591874157494077458"></a><br />Photo <a href="http://www.lovechclimbing.com/">Ivelin Penchev</a>.<br /><br />Well, I hurt my finger again. Another ring finger pulley, but the other hand this time. This one feels less severe than the last one, so that should mean a faster recovery. The picture above was actually from an earlier attempt, after grating my hand into the rock while popping off unexpectedly.<br /><br />I was trying to climb Black Lung in Joe's Valley. I felt pretty close in the winter using the standard beta, but it was feeling hard that way this spring mostly due to the strain it was putting on some muscles that were already bothering me. I decided to play with beta again before refocusing on other things. I tried a method, not one I had come up with, but one I had played around with in the past. Basically, you go all the way from the intermediate, replacing the match with a easier move, but perhaps making the last move more difficult. Right away this started to get me close, coming off the last pocket, but not yet with enough control to hold it.<br /><br />I had also tried a little with Jason's method, doing the first move and jumping out to the sloper. I hadn't had much luck that way, and partly I just wanted to climb the direct line. I realized though, with the beta I was using it might not be so bad to go out to that hold instead. The difficulty I had before was trying to jump to that hold from low hands, but from the intermediate it didn't seem so bad.<br /><br />I decided to put a session in using this variation of Jason's method, and if that went well, perhaps do the direct version also. I felt good, but was making some mistakes on the early moves. Eventually getting past that, I started giving some good efforts and thought I might do it. I decided to give a last good effort. I tried a little harder, probably went a little too dynamically since I actually overshot the hold a bit. Simultaneously I hit the sloper and felt a familiar pop in my left ring finger. I remember thinking for a moment that if I could just hold on maybe I could finish the climb, but my right hand was already sliding off the sloper.<br /><br />Next thing I knew I was back on the ground. Fuck!<br /><br />Video of the injury go from <a href="http://www.lovechclimbing.com/">Ivelin Penchev</a>. You can't really see or hear anything though.<br /><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dzmqTEVSbV0Msoo1z4Rdp39r5nGynJpkfb7w-02lLwBOZab7ZhFDRNAg5PM-uVUd2SfbdTKT6ho2f1MIPMx0A' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe><br /><br /><br />My plan was to be back on the front range for work April 18th, but being unable to climb I decided to come back a few weeks early. I'm resisting climbing, even easy stuff for now, but soon ill start the rehab process. The truth is, I can probably use a few weeks completely off from climbing. I think the last time I took more than a week off was the last time I hurt a finger, about a year and a half ago. Not climbing for a few weeks should be good for the finger, as well as all the little things that hurt, but haven't been bad enough to force real rest.<br /><br />In the mean time, I'm doing some cross training with my friend Mike who is also injured. We've been running and doing various exercise to improve overall fitness. If all goes as planned, I'll come back to climbing in better shape than ever! I don't know why I always get really motivated when I get hurt, but I guess it's better than the other way around.<br /><br />However, training isn't really taking up all my time, and I don't start work for another couple of weeks, so I have some extra time with which to occupy myself. One of my favorite rest activities is hiking around looking for new boulders, but it's so costly, driving around all the time, specially with the high gas prices. Obviously I haven't been spending all that time updating my blog, but I have been doing something productive. I been taking the opportunity to learn how to write apps for smartphones. Specifically phones that run Android, since Android uses Java and I like coding in Java. I'm hoping I might be able to generate a moderate income to supplement what I am doing now. All I need are some ideas for some useful software. I guess thats the hard part.paulnadlerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04227813178262333979noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2351121854126030407.post-32924677561031262492011-03-24T15:31:00.000-07:002011-03-24T15:32:18.798-07:00Hueco TanksCamp at Hueco with the Germans.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-mYy2ow8oGFA/TYu6XVxcHSI/AAAAAAAAAOE/rjMBfMC2jgQ/s1600/_DSC9484.JPG"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 266px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-mYy2ow8oGFA/TYu6XVxcHSI/AAAAAAAAAOE/rjMBfMC2jgQ/s400/_DSC9484.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5587764672827497762" /></a><br /><br />I left Hueco earlier this month, and made my way north for some spring climbing in Joe's Valley. My delinquency in posting about my remaining time in Hueco was mostly due to me being lazy. I didn't bring my cameras out very much, and hadn't felt like writing. I guess my blog has always been a little sporadic, but I kinda like it that way.<br /><br />Anyways, Hueco was a lot of fun. Lots of new people and new climbs. Tried to climb a lot of the classics, but there are still many to see and do. Next time!<br /><br />Hanging out with the Evolv crew.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vCtR4MO3cso/TYvCy27n7eI/AAAAAAAAAOM/rZKL2qeohoE/s1600/phoca_thumb_l_AxelP_110218_2931.jpg"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 266px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vCtR4MO3cso/TYvCy27n7eI/AAAAAAAAAOM/rZKL2qeohoE/s400/phoca_thumb_l_AxelP_110218_2931.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5587773941678075362" /></a><br /><br />Axel did managed to get my send of Chbalanke v11 on film, so that might turn up soon. Until then, it's gonna be Joe's Valley. At least until I get back to Colorado later this spring.paulnadlerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04227813178262333979noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2351121854126030407.post-81399943285236823562011-02-16T13:08:00.000-08:002011-02-16T13:46:08.325-08:00Shoulder Surgery VideoA couple of years ago I had surgery to repair an injured shoulder. The cartilage had detached from the bone (labral tear), and was causing instability in the joint.<br /><br />Far too many of my friends have been needing similar repairs lately, and it got me thinking. I was given a video from the scope afterwards, but it doesn't seem like this is a very common practice. So I decided to upload the video so my friends, or anyone else with a similar injury, could see what it looks like in there and how they fix it.<br /><br />Video from the scope<br /><iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/17824642" width="400" height="265" frameborder="0"></iframe><p><a href="http://vimeo.com/17824642">Shoulder Surgery</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user1278094">Paul Nadler</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p><br />The following an excerpt from my MRI. I think the differences from what they found with the scope were just that my biceps tendon WAS intact, and that I had a Bankart tear as well as SLAP. My understanding is that these terms described the region of the labrum that is torn. I was told that I was torn from about 11:00 to 6:00. <br /><br />FINDINGS: There is Hill-Sachs deformity with bone bruise of the superior posterior and medial aspect of the humeral head.<br /><br />There is anterior glenoid labral tear extending to the most anterior aspect of the superior glenoid labrum which could be related to SLAP II. There is also edema of the long head of the biceps tendon which could be partially torn. Edema is also noted involving the most superior aspect of the subscapularis adjacent to the tendon. Partial tear of the superior aspect of subscapularis at its insertion onto the humeral head is suspected.<br /><br />Thickening of the inferiorly glenohumeral ligament. AC joint is preserved. Type I acromion.<br /><br />Subscapularis, infraspinatus and teres minors appear intact.<br /><br />IMPRESSION: Anterior glenoid labral signal abnormality compatible with tear with possible SLAP II lesion of the anterior aspect of the superior glenoid labrum. There is suspicion for a tear of the long head of the biceps tendon. Biceps tendon however is in its biceps grove. Hill-Sachs deformity with edema of the humeral head. Partial tear superior aspect of the subscapularis. AC joint is preserved. No encroachment. Type I acromion. Biceps tendon is in its grove.paulnadlerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04227813178262333979noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2351121854126030407.post-83258019331353139612011-02-12T15:44:00.000-08:002011-02-12T15:46:54.598-08:00First Time in Hueco TanksHueco Tanks is a kind of strange place. Even the name is redundant. Hueco means hole, and tanks are water holes. Hole holes? The landscape is flat and barren, with this out cropping of unique rock called syenite. The park itself is also a bit strange. All the corridors and different levels give the park a larger feeling than is suggested by its relatively small footprint. Of course you can't forget about all the rules, many of which I barley understand even after watching the 20 minute orientation video. One thing is certain though, there are plenty of good boulder problems to do.<br /><br />I have been avoiding Hueco mainly because of the difficult dog situation, but decided I just needed to go anyways. There are so many problems here and I have been trying everything, and mostly not climbing anything. I find with new areas it often takes me some time to adapt. This is especially true for me with much of the climbing in Hueco. I'm just getting worked on all the steep and powerful stuff. Still I have managed to climb some classics like the Egg, and I am really enjoying having so many new problems to work on and figure out.<br /><br />The Egg V8<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JWrax_oAnWQ/TVcOTfEyy7I/AAAAAAAAANA/weZ0q1vBqb8/s1600/IMG_5129.JPG"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JWrax_oAnWQ/TVcOTfEyy7I/AAAAAAAAANA/weZ0q1vBqb8/s400/IMG_5129.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5572938791816186802" /></a><br />Photo <a href="http://enzonahumury.nl/">Enzo Nahumury</a><br /><br />Me about to try the crux move of Alma Blanca v13<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Np8wCu85evQ/TVcULMfhGBI/AAAAAAAAANQ/vjmSJSxx900/s1600/IMG_5107.JPG"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Np8wCu85evQ/TVcULMfhGBI/AAAAAAAAANQ/vjmSJSxx900/s400/IMG_5107.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5572945246458812434" /></a><br />Photo <a href="http://enzonahumury.nl/">Enzo Nahumury</a><br /><br />Enzo sticking the crux of Alma Blanca v13<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-HwSJenIw5n4/TVcULmR6QLI/AAAAAAAAANY/SuOxwZf7HwA/s1600/IMG_5110.JPG"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-HwSJenIw5n4/TVcULmR6QLI/AAAAAAAAANY/SuOxwZf7HwA/s400/IMG_5110.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5572945253381062834" /></a><br /><br />Me realizing how weak I am, trying the big first move on New Religion v7. I eventually sent.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-KUoKqRat5Dc/TVcWmpDbgeI/AAAAAAAAANg/lsw9ojmJukY/s1600/IMG_5135.JPG"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 400px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-KUoKqRat5Dc/TVcWmpDbgeI/AAAAAAAAANg/lsw9ojmJukY/s400/IMG_5135.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5572947917005357538" /></a><br />Photo <a href="http://enzonahumury.nl/">Enzo Nahumury</a><br /><br />If I stick around long enough I'm sure I'll become more conditioned. Then maybe I'll dispatch more of the things I'm psyched on. One thing is for sure though, I'll be leaving here stronger than when I arrived.<br /><br />As for Karma, her knee seems to be doing much better. I'm letting her run around again, just on good terrain and not too much. Maybe in another month I'll let her do whatever she wants. Also, here is her x-ray for those interested in these things. <br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-xlYng0HFrJ8/TVcL33RrUoI/AAAAAAAAAM4/8p2BZpwRtY4/s1600/IM000002.jpg"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 370px; height: 400px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-xlYng0HFrJ8/TVcL33RrUoI/AAAAAAAAAM4/8p2BZpwRtY4/s400/IM000002.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5572936118253081218" /></a><br /><br />According to the vet, the x-ray showed the knee joint to be stable, meaning no fully torn ACL. What struck me was how much smaller the right leg had become, due mostly to her favoring the left leg over the last few weeks.<br /><br />On an unrelated note, there have been new developments in my ability to attract other vehicles while asleep. Last night makes the 3rd time someone has drove their car or truck into my car while I was sleeping inside.<br /><br />I awoke last night in the starbucks parking lot to the very unpleasant, although familiar situation, just in time to see some headlights as the car drove off. In my alert but half-awake state, I noticed Karma was also sitting up, ears and eyes perked, confirming what I knew had just happened. I looked at the clock, about 2:30am. Some probably drunk person bumped into me, nothing more to do. As soon as the adrenaline receded, I went back to sleep.<br /><br />I was surprised to find in the morning that I was hit quite a bit harder than I had thought.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-O993etqccu4/TVcR87zfu2I/AAAAAAAAANI/Sjx8XU-f64Q/s1600/_DSC9481.JPG"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 266px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-O993etqccu4/TVcR87zfu2I/AAAAAAAAANI/Sjx8XU-f64Q/s400/_DSC9481.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5572942802437782370" /></a><br /><br />My friend Axel and I were able to bash out the big dent a bit, and there doesn't seem to be any damage that should cause problems. I asked the stores around if they had a camera pointed that direction, but no luck. If I got a plate maybe I could have gotten some insurance money.<br /><br />For anyone wondering, the last time I was hit was just a fender bender in a camping area. No big deal. The first time however was a bit of a interesting situation, since I was hit by semi-truck. <br /><br />I was travelling west through Nebraska and had stopped in a rest area. The truck parking area was full and the semis were parking in the car parking. I pulled in, making sure to leave more than enough room between me and the semi in front of me, and went to sleep. <br /><br />The next thing I remember was waking up to a jolt, and a semi backing into me. Thankfully, the ground was covered in snow and I was just being pushed back. My instinct was to hit the brakes, but I quickly realized that was a bad idea. While continuing to be pushed, I had time to wail on the horn for a while. The semi eventually stopped. I figured he had herd me, but then he just took off driving. I thought, I should follow him, but figured my car was messed up. I ran outside to take a look, and to my surprise there was just a very small scratch on the bumper. <br /><br />I stood there for a minute, looking around at the other cars and trucks which seemed not to notice anything at all. I drove my car a little to make sure it was fine, and once convinced, continued my drive. Looking back I think another semi must have pulled in, filling is the gap between me and the semi in front of me.<br /><br />Hopefully this is the last time i'll wake up to a hit and run.paulnadlerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04227813178262333979noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2351121854126030407.post-55085043455561194062011-02-01T17:34:00.000-08:002011-02-01T19:28:24.412-08:00Escape ArtistMy goal at Moe's Valley was to do Escape Artist v12. Having pretty quick success, I then got psyched on the lower start added by Daniel Woods. This to me is the most logical place to begin the climb, adding both quality and difficulty. So I put in some more time and effort, and was able to do what I'm guessing is the 2nd ascent from the lower holds. I put together a video, hope you enjoy!<br /><br />Escape Artist Low v13<br /><iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/19461763" width="400" height="533" frameborder="0"></iframe><p><a href="http://vimeo.com/19461763">Escape Artist Low</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user1278094">Paul Nadler</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p><br /><br />Also some pictures from hanging out with friends on rest days.<br /><br />Jesse Bonin working the proj.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Itn0A_6yP0I/TUjF3mGXYkI/AAAAAAAAAMw/DIwRHvbGdpc/s1600/_DSC9450.JPG"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 285px; height: 400px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Itn0A_6yP0I/TUjF3mGXYkI/AAAAAAAAAMw/DIwRHvbGdpc/s400/_DSC9450.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5568918498154340930" /></a><br /><br />Ryan Held on Gription.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Itn0A_6yP0I/TUjF3KIPCzI/AAAAAAAAAMo/oYb1aTSm3wQ/s1600/_DSC9359.JPG"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 266px; height: 400px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Itn0A_6yP0I/TUjF3KIPCzI/AAAAAAAAAMo/oYb1aTSm3wQ/s400/_DSC9359.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5568918490645990194" /></a><br /><br />Ryan Held sticking the big move on Escape Artist<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Itn0A_6yP0I/TUjF2SSQQ9I/AAAAAAAAAMY/6cXLgt7Fo4s/s1600/_DSC9308.JPG"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 266px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Itn0A_6yP0I/TUjF2SSQQ9I/AAAAAAAAAMY/6cXLgt7Fo4s/s400/_DSC9308.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5568918475655627730" /></a><br /><br />Andy Rosenzweig heading back to the car after a day of bouldering.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Itn0A_6yP0I/TUjF2wNGb5I/AAAAAAAAAMg/hWmDM1qIIdI/s1600/_DSC9390.JPG"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 266px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Itn0A_6yP0I/TUjF2wNGb5I/AAAAAAAAAMg/hWmDM1qIIdI/s400/_DSC9390.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5568918483687075730" /></a>paulnadlerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04227813178262333979noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2351121854126030407.post-56689363837533055932011-01-09T21:05:00.000-08:002011-01-10T18:17:05.858-08:00VegasWhen it's snowing and cold all over the country, you can always count on Vegas to be... less cold and snowy. It seems everywhere in the west got pummeled by a massive storm recently, and Vegas was no exception. It dried up though, and the climbing has been great since.<br /><br />Getting dark while on Progressive Guy v10<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Itn0A_6yP0I/TSqU4e4-VhI/AAAAAAAAAME/12C8gVpZEss/s1600/phoca_thumb_l_AxelP_101231_0174.jpg"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 266px; height: 400px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Itn0A_6yP0I/TSqU4e4-VhI/AAAAAAAAAME/12C8gVpZEss/s400/phoca_thumb_l_AxelP_101231_0174.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5560420388027913746" /></a><br />Photo <a href="http://axel.perschmann.info/">Axel Perschmann</a><br /><br />I was able to finish up some climbs I didn't do last spring including the amazing Americana Exotica v9/10. Sorry, no pictures or video. Then I got food poisoning or maybe a stomach flu, and vomited all night. The next day I tried to climb this a cool problem called ultraviolet, and got totally shut down. I guess some rest was needed.<br /><br />Karma had been nursing a leg injury for the last few weeks, so I tried keeping her on a leash most of the time for a week or so to see if that would clear it up. Unfortunately I noticed she was still limping a little at the end of the day so I decided it was time to take her to the vet.<br /><br />The vet figured out that her knee was the culprit, and suspected a torn ACL. My brother's dog, and several friend's dogs have had this happen, and it is a costly and long recovery. When the x-ray results were back, I was happy to find that she did NOT have a torn ACL, or at least not fully torn. She could have a partial tear, or something else could be injured in her knee.<br /><br />The vet recommend that I restrict activity for a week or two. Of course I had already been doing that, but when she said to keep her from going up and down steps if possible, I realized that leashed hiking through canyons instead of unleashed hiking through canyons, probably doesn't constitute the kind of restricted activity the vet had in mind.<br /><br />So now I have Karma confined to the car and short walks for a couple of weeks, and then probably back to the leash until i'm confident shes back in top form. Poor little doggy.<br /><br />Karma protesting me putting her on my lap to keep warm, by not posing for the camera.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Itn0A_6yP0I/TSu3C3wtsyI/AAAAAAAAAMM/jFidZu0ghGI/s1600/phoca_thumb_l_AxelP_110102_0309.jpg"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 266px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Itn0A_6yP0I/TSu3C3wtsyI/AAAAAAAAAMM/jFidZu0ghGI/s400/phoca_thumb_l_AxelP_110102_0309.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5560739424874902306" /></a><br />Photo <a href="http://axel.perschmann.info/">Axel Perschmann</a><br /><br />Having recovered from illness myself, I was able to get back and finished up Book of Nightmares v11/12. Book is a very nice arete climb that involves a combination of technique and power. After falling once after the crux (3rd move), I was able to seal the deal a couple tries later.<br /><br /><iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/18640155" width="400" height="533" frameborder="0"></iframe><p><a href="http://vimeo.com/18640155">Book of Nightmares</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user1278094">Paul Nadler</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p>paulnadlerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04227813178262333979noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2351121854126030407.post-83818547520757646622010-12-14T16:05:00.000-08:002010-12-17T17:45:34.650-08:00Black Lung AttemptsI had a goal this winter to climb Black Lung v13 in Joe's Valley. I have been making progress, but no send yet. Now it looks like a big storm is on the way and I may have to wait. Sometimes these storms pass by though, so I may get more chances. Either way, I'll be heading to Vegas in week or so. I'll just have to see what happens.<br /><br />One of my best goes so far.<br /><iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/17824895" width="400" height="533" frameborder="0"></iframe><p><a href="http://vimeo.com/17824895">Black Lung Attempt</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user1278094">Paul Nadler</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p>paulnadlerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04227813178262333979noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2351121854126030407.post-20506512853359657472010-12-12T10:57:00.000-08:002010-12-12T13:38:21.707-08:00The cycle of lifeToday for something loosely related to climbing.<br /><br />This is a video of Karma eating a small animal while out climbing one day. Warning! Not for the squeamish.<br /><iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/13845956" width="400" height="225" frameborder="0"></iframe><p><a href="http://vimeo.com/13845956">Karma hunting</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user1278094">Paul Nadler</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p><br /><br />On a related theme. Here is the scene I happened across on my return to Joe's Valley. I guess it's lion hunting season.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Itn0A_6yP0I/TQU5bLbdklI/AAAAAAAAALs/KAOp40mDj4o/s1600/_DSC9023%2B%2528Modified%2Bin%2BGIMP%2BImage%2BEditor%2529.JPG"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 239px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Itn0A_6yP0I/TQU5bLbdklI/AAAAAAAAALs/KAOp40mDj4o/s400/_DSC9023%2B%2528Modified%2Bin%2BGIMP%2BImage%2BEditor%2529.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5549905254891229778" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Itn0A_6yP0I/TQU5bxHd9NI/AAAAAAAAAL0/D_bHSmlvQeQ/s1600/_DSC9021%2B%2528Modified%2Bin%2BGIMP%2BImage%2BEditor%2529.JPG"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 266px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Itn0A_6yP0I/TQU5bxHd9NI/AAAAAAAAAL0/D_bHSmlvQeQ/s400/_DSC9021%2B%2528Modified%2Bin%2BGIMP%2BImage%2BEditor%2529.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5549905265007916242" /></a>paulnadlerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04227813178262333979noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2351121854126030407.post-91214668940297661752010-11-26T09:49:00.000-08:002010-11-27T18:38:10.313-08:00Slasher Video<iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/17244685" width="400" height="225" frameborder="0"></iframe><p><a href="http://vimeo.com/17244685">Slasher</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user1278094">Paul Nadler</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p>paulnadlerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04227813178262333979noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2351121854126030407.post-81854016309539228622010-11-13T12:51:00.000-08:002010-11-14T19:20:32.836-08:00BattletoadsHere are a couple of videos from Joe's Valley that I managed to get edited this weekend. Video all taken by <a href="http://axel.perschmann.info/">Axel Perschmann</a>.<br /><br />One of my favorite climbs in Joe's Valley. Battletoads, v10.<br /><iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/16809629?portrait=0" width="400" height="225" frameborder="0"></iframe><p><a href="http://vimeo.com/16809629">Battletoads</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user1278094">Paul Nadler</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p><br /><br />Messing around collecting firewood, juggling, and trying to climb.<br /><iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/16819580?portrait=0" width="400" height="225" frameborder="0"></iframe><p><a href="http://vimeo.com/16819580">Joe's Valley Shenanigans</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user1278094">Paul Nadler</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p>paulnadlerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04227813178262333979noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2351121854126030407.post-11969269381765320802010-11-02T07:03:00.001-07:002010-11-02T08:12:18.344-07:00SlasherLast year about this time, I started working on a nice undone line in Joe's Valley, UT. It lies up the hill from the warm-up boulder on the right fork. It was the project to the right of Afterthought. Big moves starting in a pod, and moving through some amazing slashes in the rock, finally lead to a big dyno. After many days, I was falling on the dyno. On my next attempt, just as I was pulling hard for the last move, my pinky slipped out of the slot hold, putting all my weight into my ring finger. I tore my A2 pulley pretty bad, and had to leave without doing the problem.<br /><br />The finger wasn't, and still isn't 100 percent, but you can't wait forever. I came back to Joe's in October, and began the process again. It took me a while just to do the move I hurt my finger on. It was hard to pull on that hold, knowing what had happened, and what could happen again. Slowly I dialed in all the moves, and got back to giving send gos.<br /><br />I was hoping a couple of weeks would be enough to dispatch the problem, but progress was a bit slower than expected. Rain and snow forced too many rest days, and it came down to one more day before I would have to return to CO for November. Every attempt I was getting closer, falling on the lip the last few tries. It was getting late, and my finger was starting to get sore. I knew I had one more try. <br /><br />I pulled on and got through the first moves without making any mistakes. I threw for the lip, not worried about my finger, but aware of exactly how hard I could safely pull. I grabbed the decent hold on the lip and held on for dear life. This time I didn't find myself back on the pads, and I quickly topped out. Success!<br /><br />Thanks to everyone that hiked up there with me, worked out beta, video, etc.<br /><br />Slasher<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Itn0A_6yP0I/TNAbOEJsYXI/AAAAAAAAALQ/itPM5KKjK8Q/s1600/09_evolv.jpg"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 267px; height: 400px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Itn0A_6yP0I/TNAbOEJsYXI/AAAAAAAAALQ/itPM5KKjK8Q/s400/09_evolv.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5534953870484857202" /></a><br />Photo Cole Benoit<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Itn0A_6yP0I/TNAaaJJmNmI/AAAAAAAAALI/boNjhaQphzA/s1600/_MG_8830.jpg"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 267px; height: 400px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Itn0A_6yP0I/TNAaaJJmNmI/AAAAAAAAALI/boNjhaQphzA/s400/_MG_8830.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5534952978473432674" /></a><br />Photo Cole Benoit<br /><br />Video at some point.paulnadlerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04227813178262333979noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2351121854126030407.post-2685955324314339832010-10-23T10:28:00.001-07:002010-10-23T13:12:57.567-07:00Joe's Valley<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Itn0A_6yP0I/TMMpxUdYF7I/AAAAAAAAAKg/OJvFhtr7pEA/s1600/_DSC8753+(Modified+in+GIMP+Image+Editor).JPG"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 266px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Itn0A_6yP0I/TMMpxUdYF7I/AAAAAAAAAKg/OJvFhtr7pEA/s400/_DSC8753+(Modified+in+GIMP+Image+Editor).JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5531310694623352754" /></a><br />I can't remember the last year where I haven't spent a significant amount of time in Joe's Valley, and this year is no different. Joe's is one of my favorite climbing areas, along with Squamish. Interestingly these two areas couldn't be more different from each other. Maybe It's the extremes that attracts me.<br /><br />Anyways, I'm here in Joe's, working on new things and old things. It has been very rainy, and I haven't been able to climb nearly as much as I have wanted to. Today again it's raining, and it looks worse tomorrow. Hopefully the weather improves for some some good conditions before I have to get back to Colorado for work.<br /><br />Thanks to Axel and Katinka I have some pictures to share of a couple of very good climbs in Joe's.<br /><br />AFA (American Freedom Association) v2. This is very fun problem on perfect rock, with a committing finish. One of my favorite easier problems in Joe's. You can find it by hiking a few minutes up the wash behind the UMWA boulder. It will be on your left, sitting in the wash.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Itn0A_6yP0I/TMMc41H_IDI/AAAAAAAAAJw/OsUSPcM0uNY/s1600/AxelP_101020_7529.jpg"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 267px; height: 400px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Itn0A_6yP0I/TMMc41H_IDI/AAAAAAAAAJw/OsUSPcM0uNY/s400/AxelP_101020_7529.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5531296529999929394" /></a><br /><br />Fiery Furnace v10. This is a very good, but overlooked problem in the Hulk area. Just hike a minute or two past Dirty Harry and you will come across a beautifully face reminiscent of hooters, but more enjoyable to climb on. Some techy moves lead to a very large Dyno, or various static methods. Despite baking in the sun, Axel and I both managed to send. Neither of us did the big jump.<br /><br />Me<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Itn0A_6yP0I/TMMk5wbnUFI/AAAAAAAAAKA/2A_di-2gClc/s1600/AxelP_101020_7605.jpg"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 267px; height: 400px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Itn0A_6yP0I/TMMk5wbnUFI/AAAAAAAAAKA/2A_di-2gClc/s400/AxelP_101020_7605.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5531305342012969042" /></a><br /><br />Axel<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Itn0A_6yP0I/TMMxAxD1sLI/AAAAAAAAAKw/-7-RG_2XIw8/s1600/AxelP_101020_7599.jpg"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 267px; height: 400px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Itn0A_6yP0I/TMMxAxD1sLI/AAAAAAAAAKw/-7-RG_2XIw8/s400/AxelP_101020_7599.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5531318656580300978" /></a><br /><br /><br />Axel also sent the tree at Big Joe.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Itn0A_6yP0I/TMMpxLyxe2I/AAAAAAAAAKY/Uyyw_a3IYC4/s1600/_DSC8897+(Modified+in+GIMP+Image+Editor).JPG"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 266px; height: 400px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Itn0A_6yP0I/TMMpxLyxe2I/AAAAAAAAAKY/Uyyw_a3IYC4/s400/_DSC8897+(Modified+in+GIMP+Image+Editor).JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5531310692297177954" /></a>paulnadlerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04227813178262333979noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2351121854126030407.post-19533244702086971272010-09-22T11:08:00.000-07:002010-09-23T11:27:48.720-07:00LeavenworthHere are a few photos from my friend Tyler Roemer, on his short visit here last week. Check out his <a href="http://tylerroemer.blogspot.com">blog</a> for more great photos of Leavenworth, and other amazing locations.<br /><br />About to do the last hard move of the Practitioner v11/12.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Itn0A_6yP0I/TJuTC5X3XII/AAAAAAAAAJo/7aJ1BMl5p0c/s1600/%C2%A9Tyler_Roemer_Nadler_All_Rights_Reserved-001.jpg"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 268px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Itn0A_6yP0I/TJuTC5X3XII/AAAAAAAAAJo/7aJ1BMl5p0c/s400/%C2%A9Tyler_Roemer_Nadler_All_Rights_Reserved-001.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5520167446242614402" /></a><br /><br />Night shot on the Shield v7.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Itn0A_6yP0I/TJpKnDRg3RI/AAAAAAAAAJY/qtCuHqB4rU0/s1600/%C2%A9Tyler_Roemer_All_Rights_Reserved-002.jpg"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 268px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Itn0A_6yP0I/TJpKnDRg3RI/AAAAAAAAAJY/qtCuHqB4rU0/s400/%C2%A9Tyler_Roemer_All_Rights_Reserved-002.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5519806328050081042" /></a><br /><br />Hunkering down to cook some food in the rain.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Itn0A_6yP0I/TJpLAjir4iI/AAAAAAAAAJg/_fdu3qGVsEY/s1600/%C2%A9Tyler_Roemer_All_Rights_Reserved-008.jpg"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 268px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Itn0A_6yP0I/TJpLAjir4iI/AAAAAAAAAJg/_fdu3qGVsEY/s400/%C2%A9Tyler_Roemer_All_Rights_Reserved-008.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5519806766208770594" /></a>paulnadlerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04227813178262333979noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2351121854126030407.post-45418111351466723192010-09-19T12:24:00.000-07:002010-09-19T16:02:14.969-07:00Rainy DaysSo many places to sleep, but I suppose this one has the best view.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Itn0A_6yP0I/TJZlerJxB0I/AAAAAAAAAIw/s4DLdQgua0g/s1600/_DSC8382+(Modified+in+GIMP+Image+Editor).JPG"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 266px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Itn0A_6yP0I/TJZlerJxB0I/AAAAAAAAAIw/s4DLdQgua0g/s400/_DSC8382+(Modified+in+GIMP+Image+Editor).JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5518709971043288898" /></a><br /><br />Residing currently in Leavenworth, WA. It's a little wet right now, but previous to the rain, the bouldering has been spectacular. The quality of the granite here is perhaps the best I have ever laid hands on. The grain is so fine at times that it feels like sandstone.<br /><br />Pimpsqueak v9. One of the coolest features anywhere.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Itn0A_6yP0I/TJZueQwDY5I/AAAAAAAAAJI/cufcI6VyFYc/s1600/59585_803194559797_29625263_44599394_7340915_n.jpg"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 270px; height: 400px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Itn0A_6yP0I/TJZueQwDY5I/AAAAAAAAAJI/cufcI6VyFYc/s400/59585_803194559797_29625263_44599394_7340915_n.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5518719859560768402" /></a><br /><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Photo Keith Allen Peters</span><br /><br />Another classic, The Shield v7.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Itn0A_6yP0I/TJZummjg25I/AAAAAAAAAJQ/UA_98Ezbglw/s1600/40970_802876916357_29625263_44589905_1692442_n.jpg"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 270px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Itn0A_6yP0I/TJZummjg25I/AAAAAAAAAJQ/UA_98Ezbglw/s400/40970_802876916357_29625263_44589905_1692442_n.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5518720002852707218" /></a><br /><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Photo Keith Allen Peters</span><br /><br />Allen onsight free soloing a crack near camp. Later he sprained his ankle walking around.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Itn0A_6yP0I/TJZuUHUnl5I/AAAAAAAAAJA/CYH8g0Eh59Y/s1600/_DSC8388+(Modified+in+GIMP+Image+Editor).JPG"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 266px; height: 400px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Itn0A_6yP0I/TJZuUHUnl5I/AAAAAAAAAJA/CYH8g0Eh59Y/s400/_DSC8388+(Modified+in+GIMP+Image+Editor).JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5518719685231089554" /></a><br /><br />More to come...paulnadlerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04227813178262333979noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2351121854126030407.post-62048320249753195702010-09-07T13:52:00.000-07:002010-09-08T12:43:48.997-07:00Squamish Once Again<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Itn0A_6yP0I/TIarYmDOM7I/AAAAAAAAAHg/QX7BqG17rxQ/s1600/_DSC8047+(Modified+in+GIMP+Image+Editor+(2)).JPG"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 288px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Itn0A_6yP0I/TIarYmDOM7I/AAAAAAAAAHg/QX7BqG17rxQ/s400/_DSC8047+(Modified+in+GIMP+Image+Editor+(2)).JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5514283232781022130" /></a><br /><br />Back in the states now after about a month in Squamish. It's so hard to leave! I may have to stay much longer next summer. Here are some photos and video since my last post.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Itn0A_6yP0I/TIdtKERLq8I/AAAAAAAAAHo/V1E0VbbenaQ/s1600/_DSC8243+(Modified+in+GIMP+Image+Editor).JPG"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 266px; height: 400px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Itn0A_6yP0I/TIdtKERLq8I/AAAAAAAAAHo/V1E0VbbenaQ/s400/_DSC8243+(Modified+in+GIMP+Image+Editor).JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5514496288450390978" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Itn0A_6yP0I/TIduDLpVj4I/AAAAAAAAAHw/ig2dXgLKFYU/s1600/_DSC8184+(Modified+in+GIMP+Image+Editor).JPG"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 266px; height: 400px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Itn0A_6yP0I/TIduDLpVj4I/AAAAAAAAAHw/ig2dXgLKFYU/s400/_DSC8184+(Modified+in+GIMP+Image+Editor).JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5514497269683294082" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Itn0A_6yP0I/TIdumtXfYzI/AAAAAAAAAH4/Ci4WpWV0pkQ/s1600/_DSC8085+(Modified+in+GIMP+Image+Editor).JPG"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 265px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Itn0A_6yP0I/TIdumtXfYzI/AAAAAAAAAH4/Ci4WpWV0pkQ/s400/_DSC8085+(Modified+in+GIMP+Image+Editor).JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5514497880030667570" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Itn0A_6yP0I/TIfQC1CHA8I/AAAAAAAAAII/mmviGUF_Tm0/s1600/_DSC8279+(Modified+in+GIMP+Image+Editor).JPG"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 266px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Itn0A_6yP0I/TIfQC1CHA8I/AAAAAAAAAII/mmviGUF_Tm0/s400/_DSC8279+(Modified+in+GIMP+Image+Editor).JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5514605015752704962" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Itn0A_6yP0I/TIfQCeM1J7I/AAAAAAAAAIA/iFBMuR8dEQQ/s1600/_DSC8323+(Modified+in+GIMP+Image+Editor).JPG"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 266px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Itn0A_6yP0I/TIfQCeM1J7I/AAAAAAAAAIA/iFBMuR8dEQQ/s400/_DSC8323+(Modified+in+GIMP+Image+Editor).JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5514605009623656370" /></a><br /><br />Encore Une Fois (Once Again) v11<br /><iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/14776510?portrait=0" width="400" height="225" frameborder="0"></iframe><p><a href="http://vimeo.com/14776510">Encore Une Fois</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user1278094">Paul Nadler</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p>paulnadlerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04227813178262333979noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2351121854126030407.post-40459536450462721492010-08-20T20:53:00.001-07:002010-08-22T13:53:48.085-07:00Squamish<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Itn0A_6yP0I/THFo_PmYIYI/AAAAAAAAAGs/yawk5kv40pw/s1600/_DSC7981+(Modified+in+GIMP+Image+Editor).JPG"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 213px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Itn0A_6yP0I/THFo_PmYIYI/AAAAAAAAAGs/yawk5kv40pw/s400/_DSC7981+(Modified+in+GIMP+Image+Editor).JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5508299254979371394" /></a><br /><br />The coast of BC is an amazing landscape. Driving north on the Sea to Sky from Vancouver to Squamish is one of my favorite drives in North America. I made sure to time the drive during the daylight hours, which also works out with stopping in Vancouver for sushi... a must.<br /><br />Sea to Sky highway in Squamish<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Itn0A_6yP0I/THFsV-jbaUI/AAAAAAAAAG0/f2nF4Kos9fk/s1600/_DSC8001+(Modified+in+GIMP+Image+Editor).JPG"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 266px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Itn0A_6yP0I/THFsV-jbaUI/AAAAAAAAAG0/f2nF4Kos9fk/s400/_DSC8001+(Modified+in+GIMP+Image+Editor).JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5508302944075475266" /></a><br /><br />The bouldering in Squamish is no less spectacular. Granite boulders fill the beautiful forest below the chief. Even on a hot day, the huge canopy blocks out most direct sunlight, creating a typically shady experience.<br /><br />Baba Hari Dass v7/8<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Itn0A_6yP0I/THFvWkMEOaI/AAAAAAAAAG8/KA3Q8_DBfBU/s1600/dsc_7578.jpg"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 266px; height: 400px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Itn0A_6yP0I/THFvWkMEOaI/AAAAAAAAAG8/KA3Q8_DBfBU/s400/dsc_7578.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5508306252712917410" /></a><br />Photo Ben Nadler, 2009<br /><br />Bouldering in Squamish is very movement oriented. Classic lines often have less to do with how they look, and more to do with how they climb. Often the climbing is very subtle, and at times involving something very unexpected or counter-intuitive.<br /><br />Video still from Encore Une Fois<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Itn0A_6yP0I/THGFep2T4WI/AAAAAAAAAHE/KLM-5-H0euQ/s1600/encore1.jpg"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 271px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Itn0A_6yP0I/THGFep2T4WI/AAAAAAAAAHE/KLM-5-H0euQ/s400/encore1.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5508330580927045986" /></a><br /><br />Squamish has strait-forward power climbing as well. No Troubles is a very good, and popular example of this. Lots of pinches and heal hooking out a steep roof on great rock. You can even lock in a perfect hand jam at the end.<br /><br />No Troublems v9/10<br /><iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/14311106?portrait=0" width="400" height="706" frameborder="0"></iframe><p><a href="http://vimeo.com/14311106">Paul Nadler on No Troublems</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user3751218">Brock Jensen</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p><br /><br />When I first arrived it was very hot (around 90F), but it is cooling off now. The colder temps will bring some great, and hopefully rain free days in the forest. I can't wait.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Itn0A_6yP0I/THGN4FIv41I/AAAAAAAAAHM/jh-SNNdQUpE/s1600/_DSC8044.JPG"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 266px; height: 400px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Itn0A_6yP0I/THGN4FIv41I/AAAAAAAAAHM/jh-SNNdQUpE/s400/_DSC8044.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5508339813841888082" /></a>paulnadlerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04227813178262333979noreply@blogger.com0